






Looks like memorizing 500 pieces of art for my East Asian art history class paid off. Last weekend I got to see one of my favorite pieces!
China, Shanxi Province Xi’an, 210 BCE
Tomb of the First Qin Emperor (Qin Shihuangdi.) Terracotta Army.
There are three pits with approximately 8,000 life-sized soldiers.
The first Qin emperor had himself buried with these soldiers for protection
and the ability to maintain his rule in the afterlife. This act by the emperor can help to show us the Qin emperor’s view of the afterlife and his obsession with immortality. One can notice how every soldier is unique, suggesting the work of many different groups working to produce these statues and the life-likeness detail that went into them.
I remember thinking what an amazing feat, the making of these life-sized warriors with unique characteristics. It was hard to imagine what so many of these in one place would look like. Slides that I saw in class gave me an idea that it would be an epic sight to see. But words and pictures can only do so much. They can only give you an idea of something; it is hard to actually feel the magnitude of it. When I walked through the doors that lead to the first pit I could feel the change of air. From the first breath, my lungs knew we were encroaching on an ancient area that has been buried for thousands of years. Then when it opened up into the ledge that follows around the exterior wall of the pit I caught my breath. The air around suddenly fell silent and there was a zombie-like dash to the nearest railing, everyone trying to get the best view of the soldiers. Staring out over the corridors that divide the soldiers was like staring across a canyon. It was hard to imagine that people built the walls, corridors and soldiers. Since it has been buried for so long it seemed like a part of the earth, a wonder of nature. It was a beautiful view but your eyes soon got sucked down into the corridors where the soldiers stood. There was so much to see that it was hard to look at it as one thing but rather as sections. When we were told that we would only have 40 minutes in this pit my classmates and I all let out a gasp. “How can we see the seventh greatest world wonder in 40 minutes!”
Forty minutes later we went into the second pit that is known for the statues still having some color on them. This pit had fewer soldiers and I didn’t see any paint on them but there were pictures of what they looked like when they first unearthed them. It is hard to imagine all of these soldiers being painted to look even more lifelike. The task of painting all of these warriors surely was time consuming; it is a shame that we are not able to see the result of their labor. When seeing the pits I was confused at what the ramps on the sides of the walls were for. I hypothesized that they were for the “army” to some day exit the tombs from. But then I remembered a reading I had for class by Lothar Ledderose titled, A Magic Army For the Emperor, in which he talked about how the statues were probably transferred into the pit after the structure (corridors and roof built with wood and pounded earth) was already made. So it seems like they used the ramps to get the statues into the pit. As Ledderose says this means that only once the tomb was excavated was anyone able to witness the whole project. So the first Qin emperor never saw the entirety of his tomb. I think knowing this makes the fact that I was able to see the terracotta soldiers in their original position in the pit even more amazing.
It really is amazing being able to actually experience and see in real life the things that I have spent so long studying. We also went to a Confucius temple that houses the Stele Forest Museum.
China, Shanxi Province, Xi’an. Stele Forest Museum. Beilin. Located at Confucius
Temple. Tang Dynasty.
It is here that some of the greatest works of Chinese art and history are displayed. There are different categories of steles: works of literature and philosophy, historical records, calligraphy, and paintings. The artist first created the piece on paper and then a craftsman would copy it into the stone. Rubbings can be made of the steles. Some of the works displayed here include: Li Si of the Qin Dynasty, Cai Yong of the Han Dynasty, Wang Xizhi of the Jin Dynasty, Liu Gongquan of the Tang Dynasty.
By visiting this site I was able to bear witness to the finest calligraphy ever in every style: seal, clerical, cursive, running, and standard. It was fun to see the perfect form of these scripts because I am taking a Chinese calligraphy class. From personal experience I know it is true that you cannot fully appreciate calligraphy unless you have tried it. In the class here I am learning how to paint each stroke. There is a certain way to hold the brush and your body. Each stroke has a different feeling to it; you apply different amounts of pressure and turn the brush hairs in different directions. It is like choreographing a dance, every step matters. One has to pay attention to the smallest of details. The characters must be in line with each other and balanced on the page. Through doing calligraphy I was able to appreciate the works that I saw at Beilin. I could study the calligraphy and see how each stroke emits a sense of power and control by the artist.
In addition to these two attractions I also saw the city wall, a Muslim mosque (Xi'an has a really high Muslim population), and a Tang dynasty performance. Overall my trip to Xi’an last weekend was good. I really appreciated the opportunity to see these things that I have previously studied and heard about in college. This is the reason I came to China, to bear witness to this side of the world and see the wonders that are hidden here. I am excited for the future when the first Qin emperor’s personal tomb will be excavated. China’s history is so abundant and rich with so many artistic and monumental treasures created throughout it. Everything I learn about China makes me want to learn more and being able to see these things with my own eyes makes me even more excited about my studies.